The Shop
Opening Avion Clothier
I spent quite a lot of time in my shop the past couple weeks and I realized I haven’t written much about having a store and what that entails. It’s a pretty integral part of running my design business and making it all work together so I thought I would write about it today. We’re going into our 10th year having the shop this fall, so I’ve been thinking a lot about it and the things that I would like to change or do differently. This had me thinking about how it all started out.
I had been in Los Angeles for almost two years and was having trouble finding my footing here in the design/ fashion world. I was so used to New York where everything is so centralized and I had more designer friends. Here, it is definitely more spread out and individualized I think, meaning designers seem to keep to themselves more and geographically of course we’re more spread out. In many ways this suits me just fine. There are many interesting people doing great work here for sure but I just have never tapped into a community-perhaps I am also too introverted. It was actually my pilates teacher Allison who pointed out a for rent space across the street from her studio on Glendale Boulevard in Atwater Village. It was a decent sized space used as a sewing store and school that was tucked back behind another shop. I remember when I first opened, because I was tucked behind the store that I sit beside now ( after a renovation) you would have to poke down a little hallway to discover my shop. It was one of those things where it would have really worked in New York with the subtle entrance and it sort of partially worked in Los Angeles. I’m going to go out on a limb and say I think people in New York are perhaps a teeny bit more curious. In LA some people are, but at times if you’re on the wrong side of the street many people may not even crossover, I do this myself it’s strange. We really didn’t know what we were doing and handled everything ourselves. Andrew helped me a lot and a handyman. We put all the lights up, dressing room curtains, etc. It was definitely sparse in the beginning. I remember I hung some dresses from the ceiling which kind of had an interesting, architectural, slightly eerie feeling. I remember a friend told me a story about how the Alaïa store in the 80s would suspend dresses from the rafters which put that idea in my head. I actually was looking around today at the store and thinking I should do that again looking for spots where they could suspend from. It really makes people stop to look at things and take notice of the details.
Can I repeat, I really had no idea what I was doing opening a shop. I definitely knew how to make clothes, but I didn’t know how to run a store, and I’m not a particularly outgoing person that likes to sell things to people. I remember my first sale on the first day, my hands started sweating as I recognized the customer as a well known designer I admired as she casually flung some Makié children’s items on the register impatient to leave. Luckily I got better at ringing people up as time went on.
For decoration this was the easy part. I collected some pieces that I really loved, including three enormous white Soma stones made by my friend Mark Rogero at Concreteworks, now also Manos Made, we bought a light fixture from Workstead, some old farm tables and wooden garment racks. We even lucked out getting a Vogue city directory piece when we opened so that helped draw some people in.
The first Avion Clothier space 10 years ago
Over the years things have definitely changed, but I never did a real big build out. I was talking to a friend the other day about perfect and imperfect stores. There is definitely a lived in feeling to my store and things aren’t perfect, but I try to think it gives its a bit more character. When I mention to friends or my shop ladies that maybe I’d like to renovate it or make it over, they often object and say I shouldn’t which surprises me. I think I enjoy shopping so much in other cities, especially in Europe because the stores are so one-of-a-kind and a little more unusual and less finished. The glossier shops I tend to pass over. I guess it’s a little bit cooler to me when it’s not so done or social media ready with its perfect corners and mirrors just so. Perhaps to the person interested in what I’m doing that is more appealing also something a bit more individual. I like to feel someone’s taste and style in a place and that this is the only space just like this one and maybe see a little creative mess in the corner.
Over the years all the beautiful ladies that have worked in the shop with me have always mentioned how they love the energy inside the store which is quite serene. I always wanted to create a setting that was very calm without too much stuff in it, but not so spare that it was intimidating. I wanted to have the loveliest, kindest ladies working there so that people would feel welcomed into a warm, comfortable space to look at beautiful things. It really makes me feel proud when people come in and say they love just coming in to look even if it’s not something they can necessarily buy just because it makes them feel good to be there, I do feel like that’s one thing that you can do with a space or a store, and that’s really fun.
.All photos: Maia Flore
About five years after I opened my store I did a pop-up in New York at the Wythe hotel that was really interesting to install as well. We brought stones with us again and this time I enlisted Sawkille to make some unfinished white oak pieces for my register which I still have in my store here in LA now and love. My dear friend and first employee Simone White made a beautiful light designed by her father Stephen White which still hangs in the front of my LA shop.
AVION x Wythe Hotel photo: Addie Juell
Anyone that has worked for me will chuckle when I say that I am very meticulous and we have sort of methodical way at Avion how we run the shop. I do a lot of quiet mornings by myself arranging the store and merchandising, tidying and rearranging, it’s honestly a bit obsessive. But, over they years I have found that it seems to work for everyone and we all kind of like the routine of it and keeping it pristine. In ten years I think I have had only 10 long term employees and I think that says a lot. Most stayed for years working with me and I am so lucky, they are really the fabric of the shop and the people that helped me be able to do any of this and find my way establishing a balance between a design career and running a business and having a life. So thank you to all you ladies. The store has given me so much freedom to make what I want to and not feel so much pressure to make just what will sell. A shop is a labor of love for certain, but a very fun adventure too- I have met some of my favorite people and friends here in La and beyond at the shop and that part has been really great.
There’s so much more to write about the store, but I think that may be for another post. If anyone had any questions or comments feel free to add those below. And thank you all for liking the posts it really has helped a lot and please continue to do so. Thanks for being here and reading as always. Next week I will be in New York for work so I will dispatch something fun from there for paid subscribers.
Xx Katherine
P.S.
I want to end this listing a handful of my favorite shops off the top of my head that I love for the feeling I get being in their spaces.
A Vida Portuguesa (Lisbon)
Everyone have a wonderful week!