What Does it Mean to Be Good

Style

This week I’d like to get some thoughts down about style, true style versus popularity, and what it means for something to be good.

The world has become very specific with the kinds of media that we all tend to use, where it is almost impossible to not be swayed by the idea that things that are omnipresent or popular/ successful commercially are necessarily and quantifiably good. Unfortunately, this applies of course to so many aspects of life since the beginning of time, but I will just keep it narrow and talk about clothing and fashion here.

There is more than ever a prescribed way of dressing beyond just wearing normal trends or status symbols. I find that many people feel so much comfort these days in wearing something that is acceptably, visibly on trend and recognized either by brand or by style.

My husband summed it up quite well that many people who are just interested in clothing or fashion as a symbol or more for surface level needs often thrive on being shown what is popular or what to buy to help direct this consumerist energy. It makes it easier to shop and is a way to be seen as understanding what is in fashion now and relevant. Of course the idea of belonging or a homogeneous way of dressing is also achieved. I’ve never seen people looking so similar in their dress and appearance in so many different cities and it’s interesting how the brands can message this so clearly to the world.

photo: Maia Flore

I was sent a video coincidentally last week of a friend of ours and a lovely customer of my shop, Mr. John C. Reilly, who has fantastic personal style in his day to day life. He was talking about how when you see people dressed head to toe in brands it’s a form of laziness in a way and that you’re not seeing their expression of themselves, you are seeing the expression of the brand and what the brand thinks is good at this moment in time. His point it seemed was that if everyone took more care to think about what they actually liked outside of what they were being told to like and to appreciate their own thoughts on style perhaps we could start to see some more interesting fashion, more authentic expression, more people’s actual style. I just loved his candid thoughts on this and I found it very refreshing you can watch it here.

I would say further that I would rather see a person’s actual style than a prescribed way they feel they should dress. ( * even if it is horrific!) I never have encouraged a person to wear anything of mine as a head to toe look. Maybe that makes me a terrible business person- but I don’t wear my own brand that way. I love to mix and match new things and old things, brands and vintage etc. I suppose what Mr. Reilly was talking about is the difference between being fashionable and having style. People can have style without wearing any designer brands or decipherable trends. They can be wearing the simplest things and just carry themselves well in their choices. Some of the most elegant people I have ever seen are completely detached from branding and it is so much more about them and their choices and outlook.

I have a bag brand in my store right now, Dragon Diffusion, that I have carried in the store for the ten years since I opened. It has always had a cult following, a loyal and avid fanbase that comes in to seek it out. The bags are beautiful and classic and reasonably priced for their high quality. Recently, over the past year the customer for these bags has increased substantially and specifially skews much younger. I was confused by the change, until one day a gaggle of twenty somethings came in and informed me that these bags were “ HUGE on TikTok”. ( I don’t have TikTok.) But the way it was communicated to me implied that now they’re good.

That is where I start to have some questions and protestations. I think these bags have been good the whole time, but just now perhaps they are getting the recognition they deserve and the expanded audience. This of course is great for the brand and makes me happy. There is another way to look at this, where now the brand will have to think about becoming oversaturated, overproduced, and feeling less special. I guess all of these issues are just the inevitability of how a brand manages itself carefully to retain its image as it grows. I would like to focus on the converse argument that I find troublesome. So my question is, if something is not successful on social media or not visible to the world on a mass level, does this imply that it’s not as good?

I for one disagree with that idea. When I’m shopping I really try to look for things that are different and small. I enjoy shopping so much in Europe because I tend to find brands or stores that are unusual in their points of view and more unique sometimes. I don’t see these pieces all over the place, and I know that they are beautiful with or without the recognition.

I guess this all is a bit open ended, but I for one spend very little on marketing my clothing. I do my social media myself half heartedly as I struggle always to feel good about it, and I put 99% of my investment into my clothes and my shop and employees. Sometimes I think I should do more PR or self promotional things but then it just doesn’t feel like me. I enjoy being an under the radar store, and what I like the most is that people seem to be surprised how much they like the things they buy from me, both for the quality and how much they wear it. I think the reason my store stands and is doing well quietly after ten years is that people return to collect new quality things and enjoy the space and the lovely ladies working there. I love the idea that my clothes can speak for themselves and I hope I’m making something that has some value. This is just my small perspective of course and a long time ago I decided I would have to be okay to stay at a certain level and grow incrementally. I just thought maybe it would be interesting to share a perspective that’s a little different and outside the box.

Let me know your thoughts and comments I’d love to hear. Next week I will be dispatching from one of my favorite cities, Milan, for paid subscribers. Thank you for reading, and if you liked this and press the heart button below that helps share this post with people. Have a lovely week.

xx Katherine